The myth of the kilt

I'm shocked, shocked to discover that the kilt is not only not ancient, but was invented by an Englishman:

The name "kilt", in its early form of "quelt", first appears 20 years after the Union; but only as a term for the belted plaid, not for a distinct garment. The author who first uses it is Edward Burt, an English officer posted to Scotland in the reign of George 1 as chief surveyor. The "quelt", he says, is the "common habit of the ordinary Highlands", adding that it is "far from being acceptable to the eye". This quelt, he explains, is not a distinct garment, but simply a particular method of wearing the plaid. This "petticoat", says Burt, was normally worn "so very short that in a windy day, going up a hill, or stooping, the indecency of it is plainly discovered".

Burt was explicit about the Highland dress because already, in his time, it was a subject of political controversy. After the suppression of the Jacobite rebellion of 1715, proposals had been made to ban this dress. So the "Disarming Act", presented to the British parliament by Duncan Forbes of Culloden, had originally included such a ban. However, it had been resisted, and — since the rebellion had been so easily dispersed — had not been pressed. But the discussion had continued, and Burt records the arguments used on both sides. The advocates of the ban argued that the Highland dress distinguished the Highlanders from the rest of British subjects and bound them together in a narrow introverted community: that the plaid, in particular, encouraged their idle way of life, "lying about upon the heath in the daytime instead of following some lawful employment”; that, being “composed of such colours as altogether in the mass so nearly resemble the heath on which they lie, that it is hardly to be distinguished from it until one is so near them as to be within their power", it facilitated their robberies and depredations; that it made them, "as they carry continually their tents about them", ready to join a rebellion at a moment's notice.

It is ironical that, if the Highland dress had been banned after the "Fifteen" instead of 30 years later, after the "Forty-Five", the kilt, which is now regarded as one of the ancient traditions of Scotland, would probably never have come into existence. It came into existence a few years after Burt had made his observations — and very close to the area in which he had made them. Unknown in 1726, it suddenly appeared a few years later; and by 1745 it was sufficiently well established to be explicitly named in the Act of Parliament which forbade the Highland dress.

Its appearance can, in fact, be dated within a few years. For it did not evolve; it was invented. Its inventor was an English Quaker from Lancashire, Thomas Rawlinson.